Sfogliatine di mele

When we are in Italy, Stefano—like many Italians—loves to stop at the bar for colazione, or breakfast. Almost instinctively, he finds a bar he likes and returns there every morning. At first, I didn’t understand why. From my perspective, the fun was in trying new places. I would have happily visited a different bar each morning, curious to sample the coffee, pastries, and vibe. What Stefano knew—and what I eventually learned—is that it isn’t about the coffee.

In Italy, bars are as much about community as they are about caffeine. When you become a regular at the neighborhood bar, the staff greets you as you walk in, and over time, you get to know each other. The barista remembers your solito, your usual order. They know whether you prefer your cornetto filled with crema or marmellata. If they like you, they may offer you a dusting of cacao on your cappuccino.

The point isn’t just a jolt of caffeine and a rush of sugar to start the day. The caffè and cornetto are the backdrop for a ritual that is as social as it is culinary. The daily rhythm of being welcomed, exchanging banter with the barista, and chatting with fellow patrons fosters a sense of belonging. Daily acknowledgement and affirmation build community and altruism. It’s a far cry from the quick Starbucks stop for a caffeine fix, or the drive-thru coffee consumed in the car on the way to work that defines the American morning routine.

So when you visit Italy, find a bar and become a regular—even if only for a few days. Greet the barista with a cheerful buongiorno! Order a caffè—or, if you’re feeling leisurely, a frothy cappuccino—and choose a pastry: a buttery cornetto semplice, or one filled with jam or custard, a chocolate brioche called fagottino al cioccolato, or perhaps Stefano’s favorite, the sugar-dusted ciambellone. Enjoy your colazione at the counter, exchange a few words with those around you, and let yourself become part of the rhythm of the place.

When we’re in the States, we usually have breakfast at home, giving our Gaggia espresso machine a workout each morning. We take turns pressing the button, watching as a rich stream of dark, aromatic espresso flows into our small cups.

Sometimes I bake something sweet to accompany our caffè—pastries reminiscent of breakfast at the bar, like sfogliatine di mele. Made with puff pastry and thinly sliced apples, they’re quick and simple to prepare—a perfect autumn indulgence.