Sicily! A Photo Essay

It’s a cold, late-autumn day in Minneapolis and our Sicilian vacation is a distant recollection. With the fireplace radiating warmth and and a glass of Nero d’Avola unearthing memories, we captured the sights and the flavors of our summertime tour of the western coast of Sicily.

We flew in to Catania from Rome, grabbed a rental car and cut horizontally through the island to Agrigento, where we spent several days at a fantastic vacation rental, Bed & Breakfast Mammaliturchi. From there, we travel westward, visiting the cities of Sciacca, Mazara del vallo, Trapani, Capo San Vito, Palermo and Cefalù.  It was a most amazing trip!

Bed & Breakfast Mammaliturchi
We began our Sicilian vacation at Cico and Lola’s B&B Mammaliturchi in Agrigento on the southern Sicilian coast. The place and the experience was so spectacular, so perfect, that it merited its own blog post.  We walked up the beach to the dazzling white Scala dei Turchi, and visited the magnificent Valley of the Temples, one of the best preserved examples of ancient Greek art and architecture outside of Greece and a remarkable testament to the golden age of Greeks in Sicily.

Sciacca
Sciacca is a small, medieval fisherman’s village built steeply into the rock that descends down to the sea. At sea level, fishing boats dot the waterfront and fisheries line the streets. Climb a steep set of stone steps, some which take you right past the doorways of local residents, and you will reach the heart of the town of Sciacca. Souvenir shops line the main street, which leads to a piazza with dramatic views over the Mediterranean.  Stop by the local pastry shop and try out some of the local bitter almond and ricotta-based treats.

Mazara del Vallo
Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC, Mazara del Vallo was ruled by the Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines among others, before finally coming under Arab control in 827 AD.  During the Arab period Mazara del Vallo was an important commercial harbor and the main gateway between Sicily and Northern Africa. The historical center of Mazara del Vallo is  known as the Kasbah, and it boasts distinct Arab architectural influences.  It is also the best place in Italy to eat cous cous, a Northern African dish that Sicilians have adopted as their own.

Trapani and Erice
Trapani is known for its salt marshes, and picturesque windmills used to drain the water during the long process of drawing salt out.  It’s also where you can catch a ferry to the heralded Egadi islands, which we didn’t have time for on this trip but fully intend to return to do.  We made a quick stop to see the salt flats, gave in to curiosity and tasted it (yes, it really was salty), and then continued up, and up, and up and winding mountain to the town of Erice.

Erice is a medieval village that sits at the peak of a mountain, 750 meters (2,460 ft) above sea level. On a clear day, you can see Tunisia and Africa’s Northern coast. The day we visited it was anything but clear.  It felt like we’d  stepped right into a scene from Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. In foggy, damp weather we diligently trekked up the main street to Pasticceria Maria Grammatico to sample some exquisite Sicialian pastries. Was the trip up the winding mountain roads worth it?  Yes.

San Vito lo Capo
When you live in place as cold as ours, some beach time is a must. San Vito lo Capo is among the most beautiful beaches in all of Italy. Located on the northwestern tip of Sicily, the winding drive through the mountains offers spectacular views of the sea below.

San Vito lo Capo’s beach is a long stretch of soft sand that leads to a mountain in the distance. The bright aquamarine sea is calm, warm and amazingly clear.  You could lose your wedding ring in waist deep water, look down and see it sparkling on the sea floor below.  The bright beach umbrellas made for a splendid scene.

Palermo
While the charm and slower pace of Sicily’s small towns offer the greatest appeal, a stop in the chaotic, complicated Palermo is a must. The tour of the historical city is quick, and worth the cost of one of the open-air tour buses. A walk through the markets and the old Arab quarters overwhelms the senses with its sights, sounds and smells. We were most drawn by Palermo’s unique foods: panelle (fritters made of chickpeas and flour), sandwiches with milza (gall bladder), and breakfast with granita al caffè and large gelato-filled brioche. Who says you can’t have ice cream for breakfast?

Cefalù
Cefalù is a charming, seaside town on the northern coast of Sicily.  Full of tourists in the summer months, it nonetheless delightful, with a convenient beach and lots of modern shops, Italian bars and eateries, many with lovely sea views. We dined at Il Covo del Pirata, and loved it.  It’s location was amazing, with tables that looked right out over the water, yet it had a casual, family feel.  We ate seafood to our heart’s content. Stop by early in the day and reserve a table with a view for dinner.