Bed and Breakfast Mammaliturchi

the-terrace-at-b-b-mammaliturc

Minneapolis to Frankfurt. Frankfurt to Rome. A loud and crazy birthday party in Rome for three splendid 5-year-olds, and then off the next morning to Catania.

With Etna in the distance rising above the hilly landscape, we drove through the Sicilian inland to the Southern coast. Finally, after two or three laps around impossibly narrow roads in the tiny town of Realmonte, we arrived at our destination: Bed and Breakfast Mammaliturchi. Within 5 minutes of our arrival we knew that it was worth every minute and every mile of that long journey.

Francesco met us as the gate, showed us our parking spot, and led us around to the vast terrace on the beach-side of the home, where the view of the sparkling blue sea is breathtaking.  The sound of the waves crashing against the shore washed our tiredness and tension away.  It only got better when Francesco and his wife Loredana (affectionately known as Cico and Lola) showed us our rooms – large and breezy with a wall of windows that overlook the Mediterranean.

In a matter of minutes we shed our travel attire, donned our beachwear, and descended the stairs back to that marvelous terrace and the broad and quiet beach below to begin our vacation.

The Trip Advisor reviews of B&B Mammaliturchi were good and the photos alluring.  One never knows for sure, though, if a place rented over the internet will truly be what it claims to be.  B&B Mammalituchi did not disappoint.  In fact, it exceeded our every expectation.

B&B MammaliturchiB&B Mammaliturchi

The Home

Cico and Lola’s dazzling white stucco seaside home is trimmed in brilliant blue, a color scheme that mirrors the sand, sea and sky and that is reflected in the tasteful, modern and playful decor throughout.  Every convenience is available – parking, laundry, wi-fi, and even air conditioning, although despite visiting in July, we never needed it due to the comfortable sea breeze that gently blew through the windows at night.  The home offers direct, private access to the beach, a shower to rinse off in, and breakfast, lunch and dinner are served on the beautiful patio.

B&B MammaliturchiThe Trip Advisor reviews of B&B Mammaliturchi were good and the photos alluring.  One never knows for sure, though, if a place rented over the internet will truly be what it claims to be.  B&B Mammalituchi did not disappoint.  In fact, it exceeded our every expectation.

The Location

B&B Mammaliturchi is located on a quiet stretch of the Southern Sicilian coast.  It is a 5 minute walk along the beach to Scala dei Turchi, a fascinating geological formation of chalky white limestone cliffs, shaped in like a staircase.  Scala dei Turchi translates in English to Staircase of the Turks, and it is from here that B&B Mammaliturchi gets it’s name.  Legend has it that during the 16th century when the Ottomans expanded westward into Europe, the Turks arrived in their ships, and found it convenient to anchor up against these cliff, which served as a “staircase” for them as they debarked their ships.  When the locals saw the Turks arrive, they exclaimed in fear, Mamma li Turchi (Oh Mother, the Turks are here!)

B&B MammaliturchiB&B MammaliturchiB&B Mammaliturchi

B&B Mammaliturchi

 

The bed and breakfast is also located a mere 15 minutes by car from the city of Agrigento and the archeological site Valle dei Templi, one of the most outstanding examples of Greek architecture anywhere in the world, and one of Sicily’s main attractions.

B&B MammaliturchiB&B Mammaliturchi

Finally, it you can bear to pull yourself away from the slice of paradise that B&B Mammaliturchi offers, the charming towns of Sciacca, Mazara del Vallo, Marsala, Trapani, and Erice are a short drive away.

The Hospitality

Without question, the amazing amenities and location of B&B Mammaliturchi are matched and even surpassed by Cico and Lola’s warm and generous hospitality.  Exacting yet friendly, they offer an exceptional level of service while making guests feel like old friends.  They gave us tips and recommendations on local attractions and sites (like La Sosta, home of the most amazing pistacchio gelato ever), and they attended to our every need.

Each morning we awoke to an Italian breakfast of cappuccino, espresso, juice, toast, jam, Nutella and fresh-fron-the oven croissants are served on the terrace, where we watched the morning joggers and early beach-goers in the cool, sea-side breeze. Guests are free to explore off-site restaurants and bars for lunch and dinner, but quite frankly there is no reason to.  Cico and Lola’s generous, authentic Sicilian meals served open air on the terrace were a high point of our stay.  Featuring seafood that Lola bought fresh off of the fisherman’s boats each day, these were genuinely among the most memorable meals we’ve ever enjoyed.

B&B Mammaliturchi

A better Sicilian vacation we could not have found.  Cico and Lola are the perfect hosts in an absolutely spectacular destination.  As one Trip Advisor commentor wrote, everyone should treat themselves at least once to a B&B Mammaliturchi vacation.  We’re already contemplating when we can return.

B&B MammaliturchiB&B Mammaliturchi

 

 

 

Pasta alla norma

We’ve been trip planning. This July we will return to Italy, stopping in Rome to visit family and then proceeding on to Sicily.

SiciliaSicilia

The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily has been at the crossroads of Western civilization for over 2,500 years, due to its strategic location in the middle of Mediterranean trade routes.

Ruled at different times in history by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, and finally Italians, Sicily boats a spectacular cultural heritage evident today in its architecture, music, and of course, its cuisine.

Image from http://www.corriere.it/cronache/foto/08-2013/spiagge-piu-belle/legambiente/perle-mare-ecco-spiagge-piu-belle-d-italia_5f768a10-ff74-11e2-a99f-83b0f6990348.shtml#8

Image from http://www.corriere.it/cronache/foto/08-2013/spiagge-piu-belle/legambiente/perle-mare-ecco-spiagge-piu-belle-d-italia_5f768a10-ff74-11e2-a99f-83b0f6990348.shtml#8

Sicily has a stunning variety of landscapes to match its cultural richness: inland mountain ranges, desert-like expanses reminiscent of the Middle East, the lava-spewing volcano Mount Etna, and pristine white sand beaches with merging with the sparkling green-blue sea.

EtnaFrom Catania to Palemo, and the cities and villages in between: Syracusa, Ragusa, Agrigento, Sciacca, Marsala, Trapani, San Vito lo Capo.  We’ll soak in the sun on some of the world’s most amazing beaches, visit stunning ancient ruins such as the Valle dei Templi and the Tempio di Segesta, and (of course) sample Sicilia’s unique culinary splendors.

http://www.inognidove.it/sicilia/travel/sicilia_valle_dei_templi_tempio_della_concordia3.shtml

http://www.inognidove.it/sicilia/travel/sicilia_valle_dei_templi_tempio_della_concordia3.shtml

Among the delicacies on our list are arancini, panelle, cous cous, insalata d’arance, caponata, ‘mpanata, pasta con le sarde, granite, paste di mandorle, cannoli, and cassata.  And obviously, seafood.  Tons and tons of it.

We capped off our afternoon of vacation planning with a Sicilian classic, pasta alla norma.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla Norma

Ingredients
Two medium eggplant
1 large (28 oz) can whole peeled tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons diced onion
Dry white wine
Ricotta salata (approx 200g)
Olive oil
Flour
Salt

Directions
Slice the eggplant about 3 to 4 mm, or  1/8th inch thick.  Place them in a strainer one layer at a time, sprinkling a dusting of salt over each layer.  Place a dinner plate on top or something similar that adds weight to help press the bitter liquids.  Let them degorge for about an hour.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla NormaPasta alla Norma

While the eggplant is resting, prepare the sauce.  Dice the onion and garlic, and sauté it in olive oil.  Add the tomatoes, passing them through a food mill to render them smooth.  If you do not have a food mill, you can blend the tomatoes.  Let simmer for 45 minutes, salting to taste.  After about 30 minutes, add a dash of dry white wine.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla Norma

Return to the eggplant.  Rinse and pat the slices dry.  Dust them with flour, and then gently fry them in hot olive oil, just until golden brown.  Let them cool on paper towels to absorb the excess oil.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla NormaPasta alla Norma

Cut the eggplant into thin strips about 1 to 2 cm, or  1/2 to 3/4 inch thick.  Set aside a handful of eggplant, and add the rest to the sauce, along with a about 1/4 cup of grated ricotta salata.  Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally.

Pasta alla Norma

 

Pasta alla Norma

Bring a large pot of water to boil.  Toss your short pasta of choice – penne or rigatoni perhaps – into the water, along with a generous handful of salt.  Cook until al dente.  Transfer the pasta to a large pan.  Add the sauce (saving just little), and grate a little more ricotta salata over it all.  Stir over medium heat until the cheese melts.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla NormaPasta alla NormaServe in pasta bowls adorned with a few strips of eggplant, another grating of ricotta salata, and a dollop of sauce.

Pasta alla NormaPasta alla Norma

Pasta alla Norma